Year 10 Monday 21/2: The Science of Big Waves

Pre-viewing:

1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
    Waves are generated by wind out on the ocean. 2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
    Even the smallest waves we can surf lift thousands of cubic metres of water as they move along.      That’s like lifting thousands of cars so there is a lot of energy moving around out there in the ocean.

Questions for the Video:



1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.

They form out in the North Pacific, come in slowing rolling and leap out of the water like a crocodile, if you get hit, its like being catapulted.2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?

Waves are formed in the 'wave factory' the North Pacific ocean, they are formed when big low pressure centres create a big difference between high and low, they are measured by wave height, the period (time from crest to crest) and the wave length (distance between the two peaks)3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?

Maverick waves are huge waves formed at the spot known as "Mavericks", they are formed out in the deep ocean but as they come in the huge mass of them is compressed against the shallow depth and therefore the only way the water can go is up and therefore making a huge wave.4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?

It is stored underneath, in the deep water, and then explodes up as the water gets shallower.5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”

 - respect the waves

 - Get in there, catch one, before the wrath of the gods comes down on you

Homework:

Design a blog post on your blog of Maverick waves from different parts of the world. Be sure to describe the geography and the topography of the ocean floor in these areas and how this helps create these massive waves.

"Jaws" is the name given to a big wave surfing reef break on the island of Maui in the U.S. state of Hawaii. It is located on the northern side of the island between mile markers 13 and 14 on the Hana highway and sits at the base of rolling sugar cane field hills.

The surf break, a deep water reef break, is called "Jaws" due to the size and ferocity of the waves. The waves at "Jaws" can reach heights of 120 ft (36.6 m) on the face of the wave, moving as fast as 30 mph (48.3 km/h).

The Jaws surf break is the home of tow-in surfing and has reached its worldwide watersports fame largely due to the frequent filming and photography of tow-in surfing legends performing there on enormous ocean waves breaking at the deep reef off the shore; famed big wave surfers such as tow-in surfing pioneers (also known as "The Strapped Crew"-for the rubber straps on their short surfboards to anchor their feet against the forces) notably Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama.

In order for the surf at "Jaws" to reach its extreme heights, many specific ocean and weather conditions must prevail concurrently. Because ocean swells large enough to produce this kind of surf occur only during winter months, primarily between December and February, they typically coincide with very strong winds which have a large effect on the surf. Other swells, particularly the small but powerful trade wind swells, can make the surf choppy and difficult to ride. There are several other surf spots around the world that boast similar wave heights; however, "Jaws" is famous for its wave forming quality. The reef and rocks at "Jaws" are shaped in a way that magnify incoming swell energy and produce clean and well defined right and left-directional waves with gigantic barreling (hollow, air-filled wave interior) sections.